- Page 1: Introduction
- Page 2: Typing experience, features, and differences between White LEDs and RGB version
- Page 3: Conclusion
Typing experience, features, and differences between White LEDs and RGB version
MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs
I’ve talked a lot about the RGB version about this keyboard, and in many ways, the White LEDs version isn’t much different. I’ve highlighted all the differences between both of them, so do check out our full review for more details.
Again, I am someone who uses the classic Cherry MX Brown mechanical keyboard as my daily driver. Again, mechanical keyboards are very subjective. Try the switch that suits you best – and get that. I can personally vouch for Cherry MX switches as the in-between and best-of-both-worlds between a tactile and clicky MX Blue switch and linearity of the MX reds. A combination of gaming- and typing-oriented switch results in the MX Brown.
Anyway, the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs have the same thickness, and no wrist rest was included again. So make sure you are comfortable this height, or just get a padded leatherette wrist rest. They’re not expensive at all – but little difficult to find in Malaysia.
Keycaps are the same too – it’s still the same thickness, same material, same flaws, and it gets greasy easily too. I’ve just swiped across the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs’ keycap for a brief moment – and this happened.
Not really a big deal, but it’s something to really take note of. Clean the keycaps periodically, and you’ll be fine.
While on the subject of these keycaps, its printed legends have been tweaked a little to suit the non-RGB nature of the White LEDs version of the MasterKeys Pro L. It makes sense, because the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs version doesn’t need any software – and it leads nicely into the next segment of this review.
So how exactly does the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs do its thing – you know, being all flashy? Good question – firstly, the CM portal will not help you at all, as there is no software controls for the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs. I did use the CM Portal to update the firmware on the keyboard, though.
Even without software controls, navigating through the lighting effects on the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs is simple, actually. All you need is the small little handy dandy user manual to start with.
If the user manual is not your thing, then read up on the keycap’s legends. Hitting Fn and all the keys from F1 to F12 and the specials keys do something specific. These special ranges from turning LEDs on/off, adjusting brightness, changing cycle modes, repeat rate, some miscellaneous functions, and multimedia controls.
Pretty neat suite of keys too, and Cooler Master still accommodated the 4 profile key switches on the top right corner.
Since the MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs don’t have a software to begin with, there is not much to nitpick about compared to its RGB sibling. However, since they’re pretty similar to each often, I do wish that Cooler Master offers a software for both the keyboards with custom macro keys that can be recorded via the CM Portal and its component drivers themselves. Another thing – full key remapping is useful – especially if the Fn key will be replaced with something else. Ducky is best with DIP switch.
Differences between MasterKeys Pro L RGB & White LEDs
Between the RGB and White LEDs variant – which one should you choose? This is a very valid question, as I have highlighted the two main difference between the two keyboards. So let’s reiterate them again.
There are two things that you need to know – and firstly is the Cherry MX switch difference. Though they’re both genuine Cherry MX switches, RGB variant comes with the genuine Cherry MX RGB variant of switches (the one with translucent switch casing, obviously), but the White LEDs version comes with the genuine classic Cherry MX switches – the one with an opaque black switch casing. I’ve highlighted the different between Cherry MX RGB Brown and classic Cherry MX Brown before, and the typing experience is significantly different. Cooler Master sent me both the RGB and White LEDs in Brown switches too, so I can really tell you that it’s not a “defective unit” issue.
Secondly, the LEDs themselves. RGB variants come with surface-mounted LEDs, whereas the White LED version uses DIP LEDs. You can replace DIP LEDs with relative ease, so you can truly Make It Yours (Cooler Master’s Master series tagline, wink wink) by soldering your own single-coloured LEDs. I’ve done something similar to my own mechanical keyboard, which you can click here to check out the full details.
I like the classic Brown switches – just because I’ve got accustomed to it. Your taste might be different, which I why I can only tell you about the keyboard itself, but not the switch. Again, do try it on your own and determine which suits you best.